Fake Moos

This nation has a problem with fake milk—a crisis, even. “Dairy farmers are facing a serious financial crisis,” wrote 34 members of Congress in a letter to the head of the Food and Drug Administration last December. Americans’ milk consumption is in a decadeslong downward slide. In 1975, we consumed an average of 1.3 cups of milk per day; by 2015, that total had dropped by almost 40 percent. In the meantime, our appetite for creamy, plant-based milk substitutes made from soy or almonds has...